Tonight I finished mitering the ends of the tenons so that the adjacent ones can both fit into the shared mortise bottoms. Next up was cutting the grooves for the panels in the rails. This was done at the router table. I was worried that I hadn't kept the tenons centered while fitting them and would have problems with the grooves on the rails not matching up with those on the legs, but everything worked out ok.
I also got the rear stiles cut, though I may need to remake the two upper ones as I ran the groove on both edges when it is only supposed to be on one. I am considering adding a panel to that middle opening though. It would make the case look much cleaner from the rear but would impact access to the back of the components. As the current design is intended to allow all of the wiring to run inside and hidden I am seriously considering the idea of just adding another panel. It may come down to whether I can squeeze another panel out of the curly cherry board I plan to use for the drawers/panels.
The next item to tackle is the dados in the rails for the web frames. I am still undecided whether I want to cut those on the route table with a 3/4" bit or whether I should cut them on the table saw with a dado stack. I feel like I get much better width tolerances with the dado stack, but I won't be able cut them in one pass. This does give me the opportunity to sneak up on the location of the lower dado (relative to the front rail) a bit. The inevitable clean-up on the dado bottoms will also give me a good excuse to use the new router plane that is in the mail from Lee-Valley...somehow saving 12$ on shipping makes justifying the purchase of a tool much easier.
After those dados its back to milling stock. On monday I ran to the hardwood dealer at lunch to pick up a bit more cherry and some 6/4 maple that I will be re-sawing for drawer sides, and maybe for the slats.
Speaking of re-sawing I have been trying to figure out how to handle that. The panels that I need to cut get up to 6 1/8" wide. I could probably have just squeezed that in under the bearing guides on the bandsaw. The drawer sides for the lower drawers however, are 7 inches tall. I started looking at the saw to determine what the limiting factor was on the height adjustment and realized that the blade guard mount takes up about an inch of adjustment. I removed it and was able to get the blade guides high enough to cut 7 1/8" It's still going to be tight, but I think I can make it work.
I finally got around to ordering a wood-slicer blade from Highland woodworking to replace the "not as sharp as it once was" timberwolf blade that was on the saw when I bought it.
I meant to take the camera down to the shop with me a get some more pictures, tomorrow maybe.